Tbilisi’s old streets, the mountains above Stepantsminda and the tower villages of Svaneti fit into this 12-day route, but the drives are substantial. Travel with a local driver or use public transport with extra time, and keep the mountain days flexible. The plan works best in the warmer trekking season; snow, rain and landslides can change road and trail access at any time.
What to know before you go
- For Svaneti: This route uses day walks from Mestia and Ushguli. The full village-to-village trek needs additional days and separate accommodation planning.
- For the mountains: Bring waterproofs and warm layers, even in the warmer trekking season. Snow, rain and landslides can change road and trail access; check conditions with your host before setting out.
- For transport: The drives to and from Svaneti are long. Reserve mountain guesthouses and transport ahead, and check current travel advice before departure.
Day 1: Arrive in Tbilisi
Spend your first afternoon in Old Tbilisi, walking through the lanes below Narikala Fortress. Ask locally about the current approach to the fortress and choose a route that suits your arrival time. Sit down to khinkali or khachapuri and leave the evening free after your flight.
Book your onward transport and check the forecast before heading into the mountains. A local host can help with a driver, reliable departure times and restaurant suggestions.
Day 2: Mtskheta and the road north
Leave Tbilisi for Mtskheta and visit Jvari Monastery above the meeting of the rivers. Check opening hours and dress respectfully inside religious sites. Continue along the Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda, allowing time for traffic and weather delays.
The road is part of the experience, but stopping points and conditions change. Overnight in Stepantsminda so you can start your walk fresh tomorrow.
Day 3: Walk to Gergeti Trinity Church
Walk from Stepantsminda towards Gergeti Trinity Church, with Mount Kazbek behind it when the clouds clear. The climb is uphill and weather can change quickly; bring water, layers and footwear with grip. A local vehicle transfer is an alternative if you prefer a shorter walk.
Ask about church access and be considerate of worshippers. Return to your guesthouse for a second night and try the local khinkali.
Day 4: Another day in the Kazbegi mountains
Keep a flexible mountain day around Stepantsminda. Ask a local guide about a walk appropriate for the forecast and current road conditions, or revisit Gergeti for a slower morning. Do not count on clear views: cloud and rain can make a village day the better choice.
Use the extra night to enjoy a meal at your guesthouse and avoid turning the return into a rushed drive.
Day 5: Return via Mtskheta and Gori
Drive back south, then west towards Gori. If time and access allow, explore Uplistsikhe, where paths pass rock-cut rooms and streets above the river. The surfaces can be uneven, so wear supportive shoes and stay within the visitor route.
Spend the night in Gori or continue towards Kutaisi only if your driver confirms there is enough daylight and the road conditions are good.
Day 6: Kutaisi and Imereti
Continue to Kutaisi and leave time for a walk through the centre and a meal in Imereti. If schedules allow, visit Prometheus Cave with its managed visitor route; confirm opening hours and transport in advance. A rainy day may suit the cave, but check operating conditions first.
Stay in Kutaisi tonight and arrange the following day-long transfer to Mestia.
Day 7: Travel to Mestia
Set aside most of the day for the road to Mestia in Upper Svaneti. Mountain weather and roadworks can extend the drive, so avoid scheduling a major hike on arrival. Once settled, walk around the town and its tower houses.
Ask your guesthouse about trail conditions and transport for tomorrow. Try kubdari, a meat-filled Svan bread, and arrange a cooking experience in advance if your host offers one.
Day 8: Walk towards Chalaadi Glacier
Take a day walk towards Chalaadi Glacier, checking the actual trailhead and transfer with a local guide or your accommodation. The path crosses rough mountain ground and conditions can change with rain. Carry water, waterproofs and a warm layer.
View the glacier from a safe distance. Ice and rock can fall, so stay away from the glacier itself and unstable edges. Return to Mestia for the night.
Day 9: Travel to Ushguli
Arrange a local driver from Mestia to Ushguli, a community of tower villages in Upper Svaneti. Confirm the road and return arrangements before leaving. An overnight stay gives you time in the lanes when day visitors have departed.
These are lived-in villages: ask before photographing residents or entering a courtyard, tower or church. Choose a guesthouse and share a meal prepared by your hosts.
Day 10: Walk towards Shkhara
From Ushguli, ask locally about a walk towards Shkhara Glacier and choose a turnaround that fits the forecast and your fitness. The walk does not require stepping onto ice; keep clear of unstable terrain and follow your guide’s advice.
Return to Ushguli for a second night, or return to Mestia if that better fits the transport you have confirmed. See our Svaneti guide for more on choosing walks and village stays.
Day 11: Return to Kutaisi
Leave the mountains for Kutaisi, allowing a full day for the journey. A driver familiar with the route can advise on the safest available road; do not assume the seasonal Ushguli–Lentekhi road is open. Heavy rain or snow can change plans.
Stay in Kutaisi and enjoy dinner in town. If a mountain delay affects the schedule, use this night as your buffer rather than trying to catch a flight from Svaneti.
Day 12: Return to Tbilisi and depart
Return to Tbilisi with ample time before your flight. If your departure is early, move this transfer to the previous day and sleep near the airport. For a later flight, a final meal or short city walk is a better fit than a distant excursion.
Check road conditions and confirm your airport transfer. If you have more time, add a night to Svaneti rather than compressing the mountain walks.
Read our Upper Svaneti guide for mountain planning and our Mestia–Ushguli trek guide if you can add several walking days. Georgia Travel has further route information.